Does your transmission grind when you put your scooter in gear when cold?

The clutch is made up with two types of plates, driving plates and driven plates. A total of twelve plates are used in the clutch, six driving and six driven. The driving plates are rotated by the engine and are metal plates with friction material bonded to them. The driven plates are metal plates. The driven plates are attached to your transmission. The plates are stacked alternately in the chain wheel in your primary cover. These plates, when the clutch is out, are under pressure from the clutch springs. The clutch lever on the handlebar pulls on the clutch cable, compressing the clutch springs, and releasing pressure on the plates. The clutch springs when compressed allow the plates to slip, detaching the engine from the transmission. Clutch plate slipping is enhanced because the clutch is partially immersed in oil.

Excessive friction between the plates can cause grinding when you place the scooter in gear (especially 1st gear). This problem is exaggerated when the primary oil is cold. This is the first symptom. Eventually, grinding will be observed during every gear change even when the primary oil is warm. Many riders have been observed slamming their bike into gear under the pretence that the bike only does it when it is cold . Eventually, this event will damage your bike. Revving out your engine and pumping your clutch doesn t help either.

Before you tear apart your clutch there are a few things that you should check. First, check the tension on your clutch cable. Make sure there is a small amount of free play in the adjustment so the clutch can be fully engaged. Pull the clutch in and observe the clutch plates move. Do you see any frayed wires on ether end of the cables? If this looks good, check the oil level in the primary cover. If these steps do not provide the solution then breaking down the clutch is the next step.

If the clutch is not exercise for a long period of time, the oil is squeezed out of from between the plates. Molecular adhesion takes place. The plates just stick together. If pressure is not relieved and oil inserted between the plates, the sludge and varnish in the oil may make things worse. Oil breakdown from heat, blowby chemicals and oxygen causes the formation of varnish deposits and sludge in the engine. The additives in oil tend to allow for better dispersion of contaminants, leading to lower sludge and varnish levels in oil and gas. This contaminate, if left coating the plates, eventually causes enough friction to cause grinding in every gear. Revving the engine and pumping the clutch doesn t work. The clutch plates need to be removed and the blank plates polished. A steel brush wheel on a drill or grinder works well.

Before you start your engine, especially if the bike has not been started in an extended period of time, pull in the clutch and kick the engine over. The clutch should slip. A few good kicks and your ready to go! If the engine doesn t slip, shift the transmission into 4th gear and rock the bike with the clutch pulled. The clutch should slip. Starting the engine, then cramming it into gear can damage the clutch or transmission. By performing this ritual, turning the engine over with the clutch pulled, you will avoid damaging the transmission.

A way to keep the clutch from sticking is to place a small bolt in between the clutch lever and clutch lever fixture. The bolt should be large enough that the clutch should just barely slip. Pump the kick-start lever over, while pulling the clutch in. This will give you an idea how large a bolt you need. The bolt will allow tension on your clutch cable, relieving pressure on the clutch plates. This will allow the oil to remain between the plates. Use this advice if you know that the bike will be laid up for extended periods of time.